The television crews filming us as we left Vladivostok, Russia, beginning our bicycle trip across Eurasia, returned to their offices to edit the footage. That night, our story was beamed into television sets all across Russia from Magadan to Moscow.
“My parent’s even saw you on the Russian television station in New York,” a Russian friend back home informed my riding partner Ellery and I days later.
We began our journey riding north, skirting along the Chinese border towards the city of Khabarovsk, over 500 miles away. From there, we would turn westwards riding across Siberia and into Europe.
The thought of riding alone through sparsely populated areas of Russia, at the mercy of possible thieves, had once intimidated me. But fanfares of honking horns and cheers from people driving past us during the first days of our trip soon dispelled these fears. At each stop, a roadside store or café, people greeted us with beaming smiles.
“Hello, my American friend,” they would begin, in Russian, English, or a bizarre mixture of both, “I saw you on television last night!”
These encounters lead to kind gestures. People offering to buy us dinner or find a safe place to sleep. Wherever we go, someone is always offering help or starting a friendly conversation.
This kindheartedness can be distracting. One late afternoon, while changing our first flat tire fallen victim to the pothole infested roads, curious people stopped one after another to meet us. A young Russian couple desiring to practice their English was followed by two army officers who asked for our autographs and called us ‘heroes’. Another car stopped soon as the previous one departed.
“We won’t make it to the next town before dark if this keeps up!” I exclaimed laughing.
A Typical Morning: The Local TV Station Tracks Us Down for an Interview
On Orthodox Easter, we arrived in the small village of Lyaleechy hungry and with no place to stay. Soon, we met a smiling store owner named Lena, and asked her where we could camp.
“Why don’t you just stay in my house?” she replied, pointing to a small wooden home in the distance.
That night, we celebrated Easter with the family. Lena fed us an enormous meal which left our stomachs nearly bursting complete with Easter eggs dyed bright red and green. After dinner, we chatted with Lena and her son Sergey by candlelight.
“Is it true there is an economic crisis in America?” Lena asked.
“Yes, “I replied. “My father has been out of work for awhile, and many people I know have lost their jobs. Businesses in my town have been forced to close. It is a very difficult time.”
Lena and Her Family
As often happens while traveling, I began to feel like an ambassador from my country. Considering both the strict visa requirements and vastness of Russia, we are often the first, and maybe only, Americans many of the people we meet will ever speak with. Russians are characteristically loquacious and inquisitive. During my interactions with them, I attempt to reciprocate by providing each person with the most articulate responses as possible to their questions about my country.
Trying to be as attentive to Russians as they are to me often means having the same conversation ten times a day. Without fail, each afternoon several different people pull to the side of the road just to make sure we are alright before starting a conversation.
“Is there really an economic crisis in America?” they ask.
It is the kindness and likeability of Russians that makes this trip meaningful and inspires me to continue. One hot afternoon, we spent long hours slowly pedaling up a steep mountain panting in the hot sun. At the top, we rested next to a wedding party having a picnic. Soon, several amiable young men in suits called us over. Minutes later, I found myself posing for pictures with the bride and groom, hugging the family babushka, and making toasts to the young couple with a glass of champagne.
“Americans and Russians are friends now!” one member exclaimed raising his glass in the air.
Now, we cycle through the Russian Far East with little fear knowing there is always another friendly acquaintance awaiting us down the road. This certainty is enough to keep us pedaling our fully loaded bikes over a distant hill, or up the next mountain.
Roadside Assistance: A Man Stops as Daylight Fades to Call a Friend to Find us a Place to Stay
A Friendly Russian Girl Showed Us The Bike Shortcuts Around Town
Comments
Gisele Bridges aka Levi's Mom
Sun, 03 May 2009 19:12:46
Exactly 20 yrs ago this month, I too spent time with the Russians. I too experienced their generousity and thirst to know of all things American. It was post cold war era and I was there with a group of women from Maine who wanted to share our interest in fiber art with other spinners/weavers in Russia and hopefully promote peace relations. I remember an old sheep farmer to whom we gave a spinning wheel to his family. He said we were the first Americans he had met and that we were not the evil people that he had pictured in his mind. He said that because he had met me, he would no longer fear or hate Americans. I still have the lacquered box he gave me. It was one of the greatest moments of my life. I had made a difference and hopefully in a small way, had helped make the world a safer place for my three small children at home. I never dreamed that 20 yrs later, My son, Levi, would return to that country and continue being an ambassador of good will. I am so proud! Love U lots Levi, Mom
alex soloviev
Mon, 04 May 2009 13:13:15
thanks for the great story! this what we need the most: people meeting each other. in this case wicked politicians can not fool us.
Sara Christy
Thu, 07 May 2009 16:19:07
Hey El/Levi, I'm a 76 year old member of that same group of spinners that journeyed to middle Russia all those long years ago.I ran into your Mom in the store and she proceeded to blow my mind discribing your trek.And now I'm checking your progress every day.May the gods also watch&guard you and send you a following wind!
I have another young friend(also from Sedgwick)that I'm e-following who's hitching around the globe via sail boats. She's been bumming around the So. Pacific for about a year now and just this week set out from Pago-Pago,going West. I've sent her your web site so maybe she'll check in with you.Her name is Debrea Bishop
Meanwhile have fun(which I know you will!)be well and keep your heads, best of luck Sara
Victoria
Tue, 12 May 2009 21:03:31
Hey, guys!
I check you travel reports several times per week, looking for news from you. When I do not see your reports for sometime I begin to worry about you. I clearly understand that remoteness and vast lands do create obstacles for your Internet reporting. Nevertheless, I worry for you. Even if you meet wonderful people only, you are still in the Wild-Wild-Wild Russian Far East. Be careful, healthy and lucky in everything!
